Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 27 December 2012 – 09:16 PM
Elk M1 UPB Gold Kit, elkproducts.com, cocoontech.com, I recently installed an Elk M1 gold kit home automation, lighting control, UPB Elk M1, Elk M1 UPB PIM, UPB CIM, UPB phase coupler, Simply Automated UPB with an ISY99 that controls various lights inside and outside my home. I plan to add landscape lights but I am wondering if I should use the M1 outputs or simply connect a switch to the landscape transformer and use the ISY to turn on and off the lights. Is their one way that is recommended or does it simply come down to preference?
#2 Kevin L
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 27 December 2012 – 10:59 PM
I use z-wave lamp modules inside my landscape transformers, then use HomeSeer to control them. I do have an Elk M1G, but leave that for more of the security duties and HomeSeer for lighting and other automation.
Kevin
#3 wuench
Cocoonut
Posted 27 December 2012 – 11:13 PM
#4 Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 27 December 2012 – 11:47 PM
#6 Work2Play
Cocoonut
Posted 28 December 2012 – 01:12 AM
Many lighting transformers look like this one:
15pl100azt.jpg 8.68K 43 downloads
That pigtail power plug is provided specifically so you can put a timer inside the box plugged into that outlet and that little pigtail power plug goes into the timer… with a transformer like that, you can do what I (and probably Kevin L) did which is use that for a UPB or other lighting module instead. However, I looked up the transformer you mentioned, and it does *not* have that option.
#7 wuench
Cocoonut
Posted 28 December 2012 – 09:03 AM
Edited by wuench, 28 December 2012 – 09:06 AM.
#8 Kevin L
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 28 December 2012 – 09:20 AM
‘Work2Play’, on 27 Dec 2012 – 22:19, said:
That pigtail power plug is provided specifically so you can put a timer inside the box plugged into that outlet and that little pigtail power plug goes into the timer… with a transformer like that, you can do what I (and probably Kevin L) did which is use that for a UPB or other lighting module instead. However, I looked up the transformer you mentioned, and it does *not* have that option.
That’s exactly what I did. I use HomeManageables HM-LM001 lamp modules.
Kevin
#9 Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 28 December 2012 – 10:44 AM
#10 Work2Play
Cocoonut
Posted 28 December 2012 – 11:16 AM
I’m getting the feeling that you’re still totally confused about this whole thing – so why do you feel that the insteon outdoor appliance module wouldn’t work? Do you plan to hardwire your transformer straight to mains power, or will it plug into an outlet somewhere? Honestly, the answer to that question is up to you… so if you wanted to make it automation friendly, you’d make it so it plugs into a receptacle…
If you really feel like you won’t be able to include the very simple appliance module already recommended because you plan to hardwire the mains power completely, then you’ll need to wire this inline with the AC power: http://www.smarthome…ual-Band/p.aspx
#11 gatchel
Cocoonut
Posted 28 December 2012 – 11:17 AM
The lights wired through the M1 Relays work flawlessly but have a current limit. You can use the M1 relay to trip another larger relay but that gets cumbersome. Once again they work flawlessly….
I also have outdoor rated appliance modules that work pretty well but they are open to the possibility of powerline communications failures due to things being plugged in. For example: I plugged in a battery charger in my garage that was in a surge strip. This affected the operation of 1/2 of my holiday lighting and took some time to figure out what the cause was. Follow me?
Either way will work.
#12 Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 28 December 2012 – 07:16 PM
Any transformer suggestions? I would be ok to use an outdoor receptacle to connect my outdoor insteon module. If I plan to run wires of about 80 to 100 feet can that be a problem or should I consider installing another outdoor receptacle?
#13 Work2Play
Cocoonut
Posted 28 December 2012 – 07:54 PM
Voltage drop on LV for your lights is more of a concern than that of mains power – there are simple enough equations that are based on code for what wire you can run what lengths; for LV, if done right, your transformer will likely have a couple terminals with slightly different voltages to account for longer runs and their associated loss.
#14 pete_c
Cocoonut
Posted 29 December 2012 – 01:42 PM
That said I maybe would have considered some sort of indirect high amperage relay switch maybe to be utilized directly with my panel but never really really did this. I guess similiar to why I would probably never connect my landscaping sprinkler system directly to my panel. My preference went to using my automation switches.
Initially started also with one 1000 watt multivoltage multitape multiple circuit commercial transformer. It was rated for outdoor use; but my preference was to take it indoors. That said adding the 2nd and 3rd and 4th one was too much for the single circuit such that I needed to add new circuits to the lighting/transformer endeavor.
Turning on and off these transformers I used and tried X10, Insteon, UPB and Z-Wave appliance modules. The Insteon and Z-Wave appliance modules just would trip the breakers most of the time. The UPB did a bit better but it would still trip the breaker. The oldest X10 appliance module for whatever reason never tripped the breakers. I ended up with 4 commercial transformers using the old X10 appliance modules on four circuits and they worked fine for a couple of years. I was pushing these old X10 appliance switches though with the 1000 watt commercial landscaping lighting transformers.
Attached is a picture of where I was and where I am at today with the LV lighting. I finished my migration from old fashioned 12 VAC LV lighting to all LED lighting this past summer.
There is though two more DIN AC/DC transformers now and they are all connected to one UPB 15AMP relay and have been working fine. The footprint is greatly reduced using these DIN transformers. The older commercial style transformers are large and very heavy (with their toroidal transformers).
These DIN transformers though will be probably gone by next year after the solar panel configuration is done.
The next project though relating to the landscaping automation is to go to utilizing batteries and solar panels. I have one neighbor that has done that and it is working well for him. Concurrently trying to figure out how to automate this endeavor (maybe wirelessly).
Attached Files
- OLD-LV.jpg 26.51K 84 downloads
- NEW-LV.jpg 32.02K 80 downloads
#15 Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 01 January 2013 – 03:31 PM
900 Watt 12 Volt Pro Multi-Tap Transformer
pete_c
Cocoonut
Posted 01 January 2013 – 04:15 PM
With a direct connection to the circuit and just turning on and off the breaker my basement lighting would flicker. You could also utilize an amp probe and do the same. If you only have a few 12VAC lamps drawing then it will not be an issue. If you go the maximum capacity (900 watts) of the toroidal transformer then the amperage draw will be highest when you turn it on.
Even though the variety of appliance switches were rated at XX amps they tended to trip the breakers (my breakers) no matter what (which I could really never figure out). Best to give it a try with some applicance switch (give them all a try; they are relatively inexpensive) rated at XX amps first. As I stated above only the very “old” legacy X10 appliance switch worked for me.
Reflecting a bit now on what I wrote; I was trying to do the landscaping lighting automation stuff inexpensively without really spending $100 (or more) per switch per transformer. That said I learned a bit doing similiar with the chandelier lighting (also purchasing a chanelier “lift” and installing it in the attic – expensive and a pita effort as the device weighed more than my garage door opener (think it was around $700 and the labor to install it would have probably been around $300?) and I had to run a separate circuit for it and spending more than $100 for a UPB PCS switch with some big heatsinks on it; then later automating the multiple cans in the kitchen trying to keep the automation switch costs low; then learning that I really did need a high amperage switch for the 8-10 cans or so it was turning on).
The if you really don’t want to play around with this stuff is to go with something like a high amperage switch independant of the controling voltage switch or maybe even better would be a 30 AMP load control switch like the attached links. I went to four of what you purchased and four separate switches on four separate circuits and breakers.
I used a variety of toroidal transformers and most of them were large with big footprints. (multiple voltage taps and circuits). My favorite was the first one I installed which didn’t have multiple voltages but had multiple circuits each with breakers in a small fooprint box (difficult though to work in). It was the most expensive one though. The last one I installed before going to the LED lighting was one made by Vista lighting (bought one for me and two for my sister).
http://www.vistapro….catid=4&typid=7
Here are examples of load control switches (just google them really quick here).
The first link is a UPB switch, next is Insteon and then Z-wave in no particular order.
http://www.homecontr…&category=73338
#17 Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 01 January 2013 – 08:45 PM
#18 pete_c
Cocoonut
Posted 01 January 2013 – 08:59 PM
You can maybe use relays to switch the 12VAC outputs of the single transformer.
I’m guessing that someone on the forum might already be doing something similiar.
Each of the low voltage circuits on my old transformers had auto circuit breakers on them similiar to a 120VAC circuit breaker.
I looked at one of the disconnected transformers just now (the Vista and another one that looks just like the VIsta)
There a “jumper” that appears next to the HV side input and I am guessing it is also switching on the HV side via a timer?
One of the very first toroidal landscaping transformers (other than the one I mentioned) that I purchased did have a timer plus a light circuit.
I forgot the wattage on it but it was totally sealed and one day it just quit working and I couldn’t get to the timing circuits because they were sealed in some sort of epoxy (guess too because it was made for use outdoors). I ended up throwing that one into the trash because there was no way for me to get to the timing circuit on it.
#19 Work2Play
Cocoonut
Posted 02 January 2013 – 12:27 AM
#20 Buddy
Cocooner
Posted 02 January 2013 – 04:11 PM
#21 oberkc
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 03 January 2013 – 07:05 AM
Quote
do I need multiple transformers that will each be connected into their on recepticle?
Yes. By the way, this is how I do it…four transformers controlled by four insteon appliancelincs, using ISY-994. All lighting is LED. All transformers are 50w capacity, none using more than 15 (according to my Killawatt). Wokks great!
#22 pete_c
Cocoonut
Posted 03 January 2013 – 08:04 AM
BTW neighbor has a separate transformer for his inground pool lighting; but utilized 16/18 guage LV wire…and you can see the end of the line lamps are really dim due to the lower AC voltage on his 100 foot runs….and another separate transformer for the LV lighting in the pool which changes colors (nice little effect)…personally I just have one 12VDC head light looking lamp on one side of the pool which dims but is a whole separate light, circuit et al…
#23 JimS
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 03 January 2013 – 09:14 AM
I found these that seem to have satisfied users:
http://www.amazon.co…ils_o02_s00_i00
This bipin replacement had good reviews but seems to be no longer available – the seller doesn’t have any products listed:
http://www.amazon.co…ils_o01_s00_i00
I have been replacing cheap fixtures with better ones and eliminating the fixture connectors that poke into the side of the main wires. Am using wire nuts with sealant on the new ones. The poke in connectors you get on consumer grade stuff go bad over time due to water leakage and corrosion.
#24 wuench
Cocoonut
Posted 03 January 2013 – 09:47 AM
#25 pete_c
Cocoonut
Posted 03 January 2013 – 10:02 AM
That said the costs in bulk for these same designed and probably manufactured LED lights were $2-$4 each.
Mostly they have lasted a long time except for the last batch that I purchased. It was me not paying attention to the design though. Its really difficult to source these as most of the times its a huge number of vendors selling the same type and design of LED with prices which vary tremendously.
The methodology of the sale description though drives the prices ridiculously high considering how much they cost to manufacture. (IE: LED, low power, hours lifetime). IE: taking the price of an old incandescent / halogen LV lamp and multiplying it by the number of hours it’ll work equals the new number for a similiar lighting LED lamp; guess it sells though.
Funny though that last batch of LV LEDs that I purchased that cost $2-$3 each was selling close to $30 each before Christmas here and folks were buying them like candy.
#26 dgage
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 03 January 2013 – 10:34 AM
#27 oberkc
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 03 January 2013 – 10:45 AM
Quote
okerkc, mentioned my LV/LED endeavor near the top of the OP stuff….
I missed that one. Apparently, so did most of the others. Enough, I say, of the relay discussions!
Quote
I have been replacing cheap fixtures with better ones and eliminating the fixture connectors that poke into the side of the main wires
Absolutely! Solder and seal for me.
#28 pete_c
Cocoonut
Posted 03 January 2013 – 11:07 AM
I just wrote to the companies and asked about the pricing. No need for a group buy as their pricing is very reasonable. Most of them shipped the LED lamps for free.
I’m starting to move to pure DC versus AC LED lamps a bit at a time now.
Pick some commonly utilized LED lamps and lets see if we can get them even cheapers.
Here been purchasing them in sets of 12. It doesn’t hurt to give it a try for a bulk purchase.
The level of business etiquette is at an all time high these days. IE: I had an issue with one particular product and they paid for a return DHL label such that they could examine the product for faults et al after my complaints. Considering the price (cheap) I paid for the product; much effort went in to ensure a quality purchase.
My LED replacement stuff post is here:
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/22735-landscape-lights/#entry185718
More stuff is over here:
http://forums.homese…ad.php?t=151028
That whole outdoor landscaping and decorative lighting is really big business. My neighbor payed close to $4000 for his outdoor lighting endeavors. (house and landscaping stuff and pool stuff). (funny in a way though that they ran it all to one breaker on the fuse panel and it keeps tripping the breakers when he added his Christmas lighting to the mix).
#29 dgage
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 03 January 2013 – 08:13 PM
#30 gatchel
Cocoonut
Posted 03 January 2013 – 08:57 PM
‘Buddy’, on 02 Jan 2013 – 13:18, said:
Im not very knowledgable with relays. Where can I read about how a relay works if connected to a transformer and how does the installation get done. Very interested to understand all my options to be able to choose the best one
Relay overload…
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay
jmed999
Dedicated Cocooner
Posted 10 January 2013 – 07:54 AM
I found Simply Automated is a nice complement to the Elk M1 panel. Just need an interface module, contact Simply Automated for details. Great lighting complement for the Elk M1 panel. I added the Simply Automated relay/appliance module to my landscape lighting transformer, I can now turn on/off my landscape lighting on a schedule, or from a keypad, or flash the exterior lights on alarm… via the M1! Great security enhancement!!
Very good post! We are linking to this great article on our site.
Keep up the great writing.